For over 30 years the company has focused on pet foods containing no preservatives or saturated fat. Rice, barley and oats replace the wheat, soy and corn found in may other pet foods and USDA choice meats are the only ones used in the company’s pet food products. Solid Gold dog food also produces a line for natural shampoos and skin treatment for pets. As pet care products continue to increase in importance for pet owners, the Solid Gold dog food line of skin treatment, ear care and shampoos continue to make in-roads in natural pet care. Having a product to help the health and appearance of a beloved pet is a rapidly growing priority for many pet owners and the flaxseed oil and shampoos containing jojoba skin treatment and coat conditioner keeps the dog healthier looking and happier.

Artificial Products Have No Place In Solid Gold

All Solid Gold dog food products are made with all natural ingredients, from the freshest cuts of meat to the high quality grains, to insure the animal is being treated like a member of the owner’s family. No artificial flavorings or preservatives to alter the taste or the way the products help the pet nutritionally.

see the full article at: bestdogfood.com.cn/Nothing-Unnatural-About-Solid-Gold-Dog-Food.php bestdogfood.com.cn/Nothing-Unnatural-About-Solid-Gold-Dog-Food.php

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As a 14 year carpet cleaning veteran, the most common stains I see in homes are pet urine and feces. These stains can be extremely damaging to carpet fibers.

There are a few tips you must know when cleaning up these stains to keep from causing permanent damage to your carpet.

Pet Urine

1. Blot urine with a very absorbent towel, pressing the towel with your heal, while standing on one foot. This allows you to soak up the urine from the pad and the carpet. Do this 3 or 4 times with new places on the towel.

2. After the urine has been removed, spray a solution of white vinegar and water (50/50 mixture.) Leave in the carpet. This neutralizes the acid in the urine that could discolor and distort the carpet fibers.

3. Never rub or scrub the carpet, while cleaning up pet urine or any other stain. This only pushes the stain into the carpet fibers and padding.

Pet Feces

1. Wait for feces to dry!!! Do not even think about any type of clean up until the poop has dried completely. If you do, the feces will absorb into the fibers and cause permanent discoloration.

2. Once feces has dried (about 24 hours) pick up and discard. What you see left on the carpet needs to be cleaned up by a professional.

3. Once the professional arrives at your house, make sure he doesn’t apply any soap or other chemicals to the remaining feces. They first need to extract the stain with clean hot water. If some of the stain remains after going over it 4 to 5 times, some detergent can be applied and extracted.

4. After feces has been completely cleaned up, a sanitizer needs to be applied to kill any remaining bacteria.

Applying these steps when cleaning up pet stains will save you costly replacement and extend the life of your carpet.

Bobby Walker is a 14 year cleaning industry veteran who owns and operates Carpet Cleaning of Dallas, a carpet, tile and upholstery restoration company. He is also a webmaster for four websites, including two do it yourself sites. His passion for helping people has been his motivating factor for his love and continued dedication in the service industry.

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One of the most basic training commands is “Sit.” It is also one of the most useful. When I take my dogs into a dog store, so many pets are misbehaving, barking at each other, or trying to show who is boss while we are in line. My dogs, however, are commanded to sit while I wait in line. Usually, people are awed by this. But it really isn’t very remarkable. Teaching a dog to sit does not have to be challenging.

Below is some advice I found online:

Few things in life are prettier than watching a well-trained dog and one of the basic commands is the sit command. There are several methods of teaching your dog to sit. Two of the most popular are the Click and the Compulsory methods. The Click method is based again on purely positive reinforcement while the Compulsory method uses both positive and negative reinforcements. Let’s begin our discussion with the easier of the two, The Click Method.

The Click Method of training a dog to sit is based upon rewarding the animal for the desired behavior. It gets its name from the idea that some audible queue is used to alert the animal of a pending reward with many trainers using a device called a clicker for this purpose. Whenever the audible queue is given, the reward follows immediately. To train a dog to sit by this method requires little effort on the trainers’ part. One begins by lavishing the dog with several treats, one right after the other while giving the audible queue.

Then abruptly stop the shower of treats and wait for the animal to direct its attention to you. Now display a treat and give the audible queue as you give the treat to the pet. Now hold another treat at chest level so that the dog must look up to see the treat. After a few minutes, your pet will likely sit down on its haunches because this position makes it much easier to watch the treat. Immediately, when this happens, give the audible queue and reward the pet. Repeat this lesson several times.

After a while you will notice your pet sitting in anticipation of the click and the reward so it is now time to add your verbal command to the routine. When the dog begins to sit, say “sit”. This will gradually teach the dog that the command precedes the action and they will learn the meaning of the command in this way. After some practice and a bit of patience, your dog should begin to sit without having to see a reward being offered.

Now let’s discuss the more traditional method of training. The Compulsory Method. This is the method grand dad used on his dogs. Tell the puppy to sit while enforcing it. Saying the verbal command “sit” and pushing down on the puppy’s tail section to make it contact the floor accomplish the lesson. With some dogs you might have to hold their chin up during this process or they will go ahead and lie down. The object behind the lesson is to teach the pup when you say “sit” that there is no other choice but to sit and so eventually the animal will respond on its own rather than having to be coaxed into position.

Some owners use a tool called a choke collar for this training method. They will leash the dog with the choke collar in place and upon the sit command push the dog down. At the same time they will hold the choke collar down by way of the leash allowing only enough slack for the dog to sit but not stand up. If the dog tries to stand the choke collar tightens around the animals’ neck producing extreme discomfort.

The author does not recommend this method as it can produce a nervous and fearful animal, which can become quite aggressive when it feels threatened. Such training also makes leash training much more difficult as it teaches the animal to fear the leash because of the pain inflicted by it. This also tends to lessen the bond between master and dog because the dog comes to associate the master with the pain and discomfort as well and may lash out at the owner or others if the treatment continues.

In whichever method you choose for training your pet, one thing remains constant. Always be consistent. Also be sure to pour lavish affection upon your pet for good behaviors and responses as this improves their bond to you and makes them desire to please you more fully. With a moderate amount of time and patience, your dog will be rivaling any animal presented at the local dog competitions for his well-trained style and mannerisms.
Source: i-love-dogs.com

Training a dog to sit is not difficult. It requires an investment of time on the part of the owner, but, in the long-run, it will save a lot of time of trying unsuccessfully to control your dog.

It is also very important to use treats while training your dog. While thee are many inexpensive treats to choose from, I recommend against most of those. Because you will be using lots of treats during the training process, I think it is important to select healthy treats. Your dog will be eating a lot of whatever you choose and the treats that are filled with preservatives and additives are not good choices.
There are great places, especially online, to buy treats that are natural and healthy for your dog training needs. Just like the time investment, it may cost a little more now to feed your dog the high quality treats, but in the long run, it will pay off with fewer vet visits!
“Sit” is a good command to begin training your dog with. It has innumerable uses and is very rewarding. Once you success in training your dog to sit, you can continue with similar methods to other commands.

Lisa M Andrews is an expert on dog behavior, dog training, and the right

Where is this coming from? I remember when I was a child, the butcher’s scraps and raw meat bones would be allocated to the local dogs in our town it was just a given treat . A dog would chew on them for hours and you would not hear a bark as this chewing process continued days later. Bones are not only a dog’s favourite thing to chew on, but also provides more essential nutrients, vitamins and minerals in a natural way, since dogs love to chew on them especially if they are raw. I remember the old saying “ Give a Dog a Bone” which apparently still holds true today. Not only do bones provide hours of enjoyment but they serve a purpose in cleaning teeth, massaging the gum areas, exercising jaw muscles and help to stimulate the immune system.

Today’s modern day pet owners are becoming much more discerning of the type of products they buy for there pets, especially dog treats. The assortment of products today may pose heath problems especially with the materials used in these products. Some products are laden with bacteria and are
by- products of the human food industries, which are then manufactured into dog treats. These often are preserved by toxic chemicals such as BHT, and other preservatives. The FDA had a warning on these products for that very fact.

Brittle dog bones, such as those made from rawhide can break apart and the small bits may cause an obstruction. Also dog’s can completely break a tooth on the hard rawhide type products. While some may claim these products are safe, our standards are rapidly changing in the pet food industry. Dog chew products made from beef jerky treats, smoked pigs ears, smoked hooves and similar products must be checked for production handling and ensure their safety.

Our own human food chain has evolved, with the modern, up to date trends of consumers demanding more “natural” products and less handling in the system. One has only to look at our grocery stores, and see the world ” organic” popping up on all the shelves, including free range chicken, organic hormone free beef, and naturally grown labels to appease the consumer. So this is trickling into the pet food industry, to insure proper health and optimize nutritional content of dog foods for our friendly four footed friends.

Raw bones can be given to your dog, for they can be digested quite easily. If you look back a couple of hundred years, there were not many choices other than raw bones. Today pet owners have choices and can buy organic products. Organic bones can be found at your local organic product store, or cattle farms. Check in your area to find farms and meat producers, and purchase raw bones for those added vitamins and minerals to ensure your dog’s health and enjoyment.

Other alternative products that are derived from organic production will also be safer. Not only will your dog be happy, but also healthy and this will dramatically reduce your pet healthcare expenses.

Up to the minute news on dogs, natural health, products,dog food, and supplies, For more information click on:
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This would include checking out dog food tests to see which is the best type of food that we can feed to them. With so many different types of dog food out there to choose from, many of them telling you that they are the one that will make your dog the happiest, or the healthiest, of that your dog will have the shiniest coat, it’s hard to separate the wheat from the chaff.

The thing that most people don’t know about dog foods is that, commercially, there really aren’t any dog foods out there that are actually good for your dog. The reason is that the regulations that govern what can be printed on a package of dog food are much more lenient than those that tell us what can be printed on food made for human consumption. Even if the pet food says chemical free, or no chemicals added, that simply means that no chemicals were added to the product after it entered the factory for processing. Before it got there they can basically do anything that they want to it.

Commercial dog food is full of things that can harm your pet over time. Not only is the raw product full of chemicals and byproducts, but it actually contains the remains of euthanized pets from shelters, road kill and diseased animals in most cases. The only way around this sort of thing is to either make your own dog food, or to insure that the dog food you are buying is actually good for your dog.

The dog food and dog care industries are out to get your money, not to help your dog live a healthy life. By making simple changes to the way you feed your pet you could help them to live a much healthier and longer life. Download our Special Report at

The use of enemas can be beneficial for dogs that has the following conditions; constipation, during fasting, dehydration, excessive vomiting, bowel irritation caused by bone fragments or the presence of spoiled food or garbage in the digestive tract.

Before administering this procedure, make sure that you only use pure water that is warm but not hot (test it on your wrist to make sure). Use about two tablespoons for a small dog and up to a pint for a large dog. Add a few drops of freshly squeezed lemon juice to the water and administer the mixture with a plastic or rubber syringe for about 2 to 3 minutes. For large dogs, you can use and enema bag and a nozzle.

Here is how to do it: You must lubricate the end of the syringe with vegetable oil. Have someone help you hold the dog gently while he stands in a tub or on the ground. Insert the nozzle carefully into the rectum. Using gentle and consistent pressure against the anus (to prevent the fluid from leaking out), slowly fill the colon. If the solution does not flow in easily, pull back on the nozzle or syringe and slightly adjust the angle. Expect a bowel movement to begin within a few minutes. You may administer the enema once or twice a day for a couple of days.

In many cases, dogs that are dehydrated are simply retaining the fluid. This occurs when the colon absorbs the fluid which the body needs. Therefore, enemas are an excellent way to administer fluid therapy. Under these circumstances, administer the enema about every four hours or until fluid is no longer retained.

If a dog is having difficulty keeping water in his stomach due to heavy vomiting, an enema can help introduce the fluid and salts that are needed to replace those lost through vomiting. Using the solution as described earlier, add a pinch of sea salt plus a pinch of potassium chloride. The same solution can also be used to help a dog suffering from prolonged diarrhea. In this case, administer the enema every four hours or until fluid is no longer retained.

John Edwards is a long time dog lover. Visit his website for more helpful advice on dogcaretraining.com/index.php/category/dog-health-disease-prevention-and-first-aid/ dog disease at:
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The most important question should be their hours of operation. Cockatiels are prone to night frights, which is where they start to fly around their cage frantically. They may break their wings, beak, or blood feathers during the early hours of the morning. Most vets are only open until 6 PM and are then closed overnight. This could be potentially fatal for a bird emergency at 10PM. Always ask whether or not they respond to emergencies or have a clinic in the area that is open 24 hours a day for emergencies. Veterinarians are usually closed during the weekend, so try to have a back up in case of emergency.

Make sure that this veterinarian has worked with cockatiels previously and understands how their bodies work. They should be able to stop serious bleeding and be able to remove blood feathers if one becomes broken. If they just have basic training in avian care, then it is up to you whether or not to take your cockatiel there. Ask them whether or not they are up to date with their avian training as well.

It is best to ask how much their office visits and emergency visits cost upfront, so there are no surprises when a tragedy occurs. Finding good quality care can be rather expensive in certain areas of the country, so be prepared to dig deep into your pockets. Emergency visits can cost hundreds to thousands of dollars depending on the procedures involved. If your cockatiel needs to spend the night, expect a large bill for its care.

Always have an avian vet picked out before an emergency occurs. This will cause less stress for the owner and cockatiel. If you are frantically searching for a vet as your cockatiel is bleeding or struggling to breath it could become a problem. Check your local telephone book for listings of avian vets and ask your local pet store. It is also best to find other bird lovers in your area to see which vet they go to for emergencies. The best source is from other cockatiel and parrot owners because they have first hand experience with the vet.

Don Rondeau is an engineer, writer, and avian enthusiast.

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Questions or comments are welcomed and should be sent to
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It is important to try to make sure your Pit Bull’s diet consists of all the vitamins and nutrients he needs to be healthy. A lack of vital vitamins and nutrients can cause your Pit Bull to have stomach problems, bones that break easily, and have weight problems. You can take the best care of your Pit Bull, but if he doesn’t have a proper diet, it isn’t going to make any difference. Diet also plays a role in your dog’s ability to fight off disease and infection, much the same as it does with humans. Your veterinarian can help made recommendations to help you provide the best diet possible for your Pit Bull.

When purchasing food for your Pit Bull, you should get a variety. Mixing up dry food and canned food will help give you a good mixture of ingredients and nutritional value that should help you to cover all the bases. Your dog will also enjoy the different textures of the food. They also enjoy bones and meant flavored treats.

Pit Bulls prefer dog foods made of meat, as they are primarily carnivores. Meat is a good source of energy and helps your Pit Bull grow, but he also needs fiber and carbohydrates to help with food absorption.

Many Pit Bulls also love to eat vegetables, hard to believe, huh? Check with your veterinarian first to make sure it is okay, then try it out. If your Pit Bull likes them, he will be getting plenty of additional vitamins and nutrients that dog food alone may not offer. It will also help to add some variety into his diet.

Making certain your Pit Bull’s diet is up to par is one of your responsibilities as a loving owner. It is important to talk to your veterinarian to see what his thoughts are and what he recommends, but whatever you decide, your Pit Bull’s health depends on you making smart choices on his behalf.

To learn all about pitbullsrevealed.com/ American Pitbull Terriers and training a pitbullsrevealed.com/ Pitbull, visit pitbullsrevealed.com/ pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

When you have fish that are sick (bacterial, fungal, protozoan, or other parasites), you want to try and isolate them in a hospital aquarium whenever possible. Regular water changes before each treatment allow for a more effective treatment, especially when treated in the display aquarium.
Sponge filters work well in hospital aquariums. Remember to remove carbon, as carbon will remove many medications. Also not that silicone in the aquarium will absorb malachite green, methylene blue, and copper sulfate. Most corals (crushed and otherwise), and ceramic decorations will also absorb medications such as malachite green, methylene blue, and copper sulfate.
Proper calcium levels are important, as calcium also helps in healing and stress, and without proper calcium levels healing may be diffficult or impossible. The addition of antibiotics (such as Tetracycline) will lower calcium absorbtion.

TRIPLE SULFA (Sulfamerazine, Sulfamethazine, Sulfathiazole):

TRIPLE SULFA (Sulfamerazine, Sulfamethazine, Sulfathiazole):

USE: Treatment of gram-negative bacterial infections, fin and tail rot, mouth fungus and collapsed fins, columnaris. Also useful for damaged fins caused by fin nipping. An old standby that is still usefull and can be used in combination with Malachite Green or Acriflavin (do not combine with copper sulfate)
DOSAGE: 250 mg per 10 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for a minimum of 10 days.

TETRACYCLINE HYDROCHLORIDE:

USE: Treatment of bacterial infections, both gram-positive and gram-negative infections such as fin and tail rot (split, ragged and deteriorating fin and/or tail), Popeye (protruding eyes, may be cloudy or hazy), gill disease (swollen, discolored gills, gasping for air and a decrease in activity) and secondary infections. It interferes with the production of proteins that the bacteria need to multiply and divide (bacteriostatic). Tetracycline Hydrochloride mode of action is as a protein synthesis inhibitor via an aminoacyl-tRNA binding mechanism to the 30S subunit. Mode of resistance is the loss of cell wall permeability. Note, Teracycline can lower red blood cell count, because of this I would not use with injured fish.
DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons of water. Every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. This product will not work in water with a ph above 7.5- NOT FOR MARINE USE!

QUININE SUFATE:

USE: Resistant strains of Ich (especially on scale less fish). Protozoan, sliminess of the skin and Rams disease (whirling disease). Also good for resistant strains of Hexamita when combined with Metronidazole.
DOSAGE : 250 mg per 10 gallons of water. Once a day for 4-5 days. Do a 25% water change before each treatment.

OXYTETRACYCLINE HYDROCHLORIDE:
USE: Gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. Marine ulcer disease, cold water disease, bacterial hemorrhagic septicemia and mouth fungus.
DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg teaspoon per 20 gallons every 24 hours with a 50% water change before each treatment. This antibiotic is best used mixed in with food, especially if your ph is above 8.0..

NITROFURAZONE:

USE: Bactericidal for many gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria causing disease in fresh water and marine fishes. This antibacterial is effective for control of Aeromonas, Vibrio and related species. Nitrofurazone is particularly useful for control of minor topical skin infections of marine fishes that have not become systemic. Effective against marine ulcer disease and protozoan. Also useful in treating furunculosis found in Koi.
Serious adverse events related to nitrofurans are very rare. Acquired resistance of bacteria to nitrofurans during therapy has been rare and has not appeared on a significant scale in over 50 years of use. Do not use in the presence of invertebrates.
DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 24 hours with a 50% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.

NEOMYCIN SULFATE:
USE: Gram-negative bacteria (Pseudomonas- Red spots or streaks on body or fins of fish.) and tuberculosis; gram-positive, and possibly mycobacterium. Works well in freshwater or saltwater aquariums.
DOSAGE: 250 mg per 10 gallons of water. Treat every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days. For tuberculosis, use for up to 30 days.

METRONIDAZOLE:

USE: Hole in the head disease (hexamita), chilodonella, salt water ich, bloat.
DOSAGE: 250-500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.

KANAMYCIN SULFATE;

USE: It is used to treat many sensitive gram–negative and some gram–positive bacteria. Works especially well in salt water aquariums. Works well combined with Nitrofurazone for flexibacter (columnaris) (Symptoms: Fuzzy, thin, white coating on the body and fins. Looks like a fungus). Also useful for Pseudomonas-Open red sores or ulcerations, fin and tail damage,fins and tail are eaten away, in severe cases, down to the body (can be combined with Neomycin for this). Kanamycin can be effective for whirling disease and dropsey.
Kanamycin sulfate appears to prevent bacteria from making their cell walls, so the cells die.

DOSAGE: 250-500 mg per 20 gallons. Treat every 48 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.

ERYTHROMYCIN:

USE: Fin and tail rot, kidney disease, pop eye. Most gram-positive and some gram negative bacteria and fungus. Black Molly disease.
DOSAGE: 250- 500 mg per 20 gallons every 24 hours with a 25% water change before each treatment. Treat for 10 days.

TRICHLORFON (Dylox)
Dimethyl (2,2,2,Trichloro-1-Hydroxyethyl) Phosphonate:

Trichlorfon is an Organophosphate and degrades rapidly (approximately 99% of applied degraded in 2 hours) in alkaline pond water (pH 8.5) at room temperature. but remains stable in the same pond water held under acidic (pH 5.0) conditions for 2 hours.
Trichlorfon is very highly toxic to invertebrates.
DO NOT USE ON FISH THAT ARE CHEMICALLY SENSITIVE such as: Silver Dollars, Rays, Bala Sharks, Arowanas, Tinfoil Barbs, Hemiodus, Piranha, Most Silver Scaled Fish, Marine sharks, Lion Fish.
See methylene blue if Dylox treatment is not available or viable

USE: Trichlorfon is useful for treatment of: Hydra, Lernia (Anchor Worms), Parasitic Copepods, Monodigenetic and Digenetic Flukes, Fish Lice (Argulus), Leeches
CLOUT contains Trichlorfon (Dimethyl (2,2,2,Trichloro-1-Hydroxyethyl) Phosphonate), as well as; 4-[P-(dimethylamino)-O-phenylbenzylidene]-2, 5-cyclohexadien-1-xylidene dimethylammonium chloride, 1,2,dimethyl-5-nitroimidazole
DOSAGE: There is no recommended dosage (other than Freshwater fish acute toxicity= 1.6-180 ppm), refer to manufacturers directions for all products containing Trichlorfon.
Treat again in 14 days to kill new hatchings of Anchor worms.

ISONIAZID 300 mg:
USE: Treatment for tuberculosis in susceptible fish such as Discus. Can be combined with kanamycin.
DOSAGE: 1 tablet per 20 gallons, every other day for 14- 30 days

METHYLENE BLUE (Zinc Free) 2.303% :

USE: Fungus on eggs, Ich, fungus and some bacteria. Effective in gill disease. Transports oxygen. Some protozoa, sliminess of the skin and oodinium. Great for use as a 30 minute dip at double dose.
Very effective when used as a dip for topical treatment of parasites, bacterial, and fungal infections. When dylox is not available, this can a useful treatment for anchor worm (especially in goldfish); first carefully remove the anchor worm with tweezers, then dip the affected fish in Methylene blue. When used with a UV sterilizer to kill the swimming stage of the female anchor worm (the female is the parasite), this can be an effective treatment. (Tank can also be treated with Malachite green or malachite green combination during this time for improved effectiveness).
Also useful as a dip for ammonia and nitrite poisoning.
DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 2.303% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days with water changes before each treatment. BEST USED IN A HOSPITAL TANK. Methylene blue can destroy nitrifying bacteria and plants in the display aquarium.

ACRIFLAVIN 3.84% solution:
USE: For treatment of bacterial infections such as mouth fungus, salt water Ich, fin and tail rot, fungus, saproglenia, skin parasites, oodinium (velvet), sliminess of skin.
DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 3.84% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days. Combines well with copper sulfate and malachite green.

MALACHITE GREEN;

USE: For treatment and control of various external parasites of freshwater and marine fishes. When used as directed the medication will control or prevent the following common protozoan parasites:
*Ichthyophthinus (freshwater Ich) exhibited as fine “salt like” white spots that usually first appear on the fins.
*Costia (Ichthyobodo). Not to be confused with ich, is a parasite that can live dormant on healthy fish (primarily their gills), then under certain conditions (poor water conditions, stress, ECT), reproduce rapidly. Symptoms of an outbreak include Heavy and labored “breathing” flashing and rubbing, skin cloudiness caused by excess mucus.
*Chilodonella, *Ambiphyra, *Cryptocaryon (marine Ich), *Epistylis, *Oodinium and Trichodina, *Plistophora (best combined with formalin at 1/2 strength)
Malachite Green is also effective against common external fungal infections of fishes and eggs which include Achlya and Saprolegnia.
DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 0.038% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10-14 days. Or 1 drop of .50% solution per gallon every other day for 10- 14 days. 25% water changes are recommended before each dose. Use half dose for scale-less and delicate fish such as Clown Loaches and Neon Tetras. Double dose for marine aquariums.
Note; malachite green is more toxic at higher ph.
Can be combined with Formalin or Acriflavin.

FORMALIN (3% formaldehyde):

USE: For treatment and control of the diseases caused by fungi, protozoan and monogenetic trematodes of freshwater and marine aquarium fishes. Formalin will control or help prevent diseases of fishes caused by the following disease organisms: Ichthyophthirius (freshwater “ich”), Costia, Chilodonella, Ambiphyra, Cryptocaryon (marine “ich”), Epistylis, Oodinium, Amyloodinium, and Trichodina.
DOSAGE: 1 teaspoon of a 3% solution per 10 gallons every other day for 10 days. Combines well with malachite green.

COPPER SULFATE:

USE: For treatment freshwater and marine ich, Oodinium, external parasites, fungus and even algae. Very effective when used properly and carefully.
DOSAGE: Treat according to your solution to bring your copper level to .15 -.20 ppm. Sequestered Copper (often called chelated, but that is incorrect, chelated means inactivated) sulfate works best (citric acid help achieve this). Soluble copper salts work well in freshwater only. Do use with snails and other invertebrates, do not use in reef aquariums, and note; when uses as an algaecide, the copper is absorbed by the algae then released when it dies. Removal of sequestered copper can be difficult, only EDTA (Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acidic Acid) and water changes remove it, NOT carbon.

ORGANIC MEDICATIONS:
There are three organic or “homeopathic” treatments that I have used;

PIMENTA EXTRACT (PIMAFIX);

USE: Pimenta extract is effective for a broad range of bacterial and fungal diseases that typically afflict fish and other aquatic animals. Fish diseases that may be treated in accordance with this include bacterial fish diseases, such as fin and tail rot, mouth fungus (often caused by the bacterium Flavobacterium columnaris); fungal fish diseases (such as those caused by microorganisms of the genera Saprolegnia and Achyle) and the like.

DOSAGE: Refer to Pimafix instructions

USNEA LICHEN;

USE; Usnea is a lichen of the family Parmeliaceae that grows in damp temperate woodlands.
I have found it effective for bacterial, fungal and even parasites such ich. This lichen is boiled like a tea then added to the aquarium.

DOSAGE: None established yet. I boil one small sprig and add this to every 10-20 gallons of water every day until cure is effective 2 days

MELALUCA TEA (MELAFIX):

USE: Repairs damaged fins, ulcers, and open wounds.
Promotes re growth of damaged tissue and fins.

DOSAGE: Refer to Melafix instructions

By Carl Strohmeyer

aquarium-medictions.blogspot.com/ aquarium-medictions.blogspot.com/

americanaquariumproducts.com/ americanaquariumproducts.com/

It’s also one of the most important dog training lessons a dog must learn, so it’s important for you to understand how to house train your dog correctly.

With this in mind, I’m going to give you a few pointers on how to house train your dog.

The first thing you need to do when house training your dog is to anticipate when he needs to relieve himself. It’s actually quite easy to identify when your dog is going to relief himself by observing his body language. The most common thing for a dog to do is put his nose to the ground and start sniffing.

When you see this happening, it’s important for you to take him to some place where he is allowed to relief himself. Your dog will soon learn where you take him every time he needs to go, and will start to go there himself.

But you also need to be aware of the other times when he may relief himself, such as when he wakes up in the morning or shortly after eating or playing. Keep an eye on him during these times to see when he is likely to relief himself.

The next step to implement is to use phrases like “hurry up” or “be quick” while your dog is relieving himself. When he’s finished, you should praise him. This will eventually teach him that he is allowed to relief himself when you say “hurry up” or “be quick”.

As with all dog training, it will take a little time and persistence to see results. So don’t give up at the first hurdle if it doesn’t work straight away.

One last thing you should know is your dog won’t relief himself in his own bedding. So if you have already crate trained your dog, and leave him in there for awhile, he will need to be let out to relief himself.

Amy Howells is the owner of the Dog Owner Blog, where she gives people free
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