Pet Care Information

Dogs dig for a variety of reasons. Once you understand why your dog is digging, you can easily stop this type of dog behavior.

Reasons Why Your Dog May be Digging

Dogs frequently dig as a form of recreation. If the backyard is his kingdom and he is alone, digging is one of the fun ways your dog may while away the hours until you return

Young dogs and puppies enjoy digging as well. What a way to use up all that energy youngsters are famous for !

Some dogs dig because it’s in their genes.” Some breeds of dogs such as terriers are natural diggers….so when your terrier starts digging, he’s just continuing an inherited family trait.

Your dog may be digging because he is looking for a cool place on a hot summer day.

Your dog may be looking for a way to make a break for it.

Ok so it seems that your dog is digging because his parents did or he’s just a fireball of doggy energy.

What you want to know is how to stop your dog from digging.

Here’s a few ideas.

Make sure that your dog gets plenty of exercise. I walk my dogs four times a day. If you don’t have time to walk your dog as much as I do, by all means walk him at least twice daily. When you take your dog for a walk, make sure you spend at least thirty minutes on your walk. This is one of the high points of your dog’s day. He has a natural need for exercise . By providing him with the exercise he needs your dog will be healthier and tuckered out when you return.

As a result, digging won’t appeal to your dog as much as it did before. He’ll be more interested in a nap and some sedate playing until you return home.

Join a group training class with a professional dog trainer. There are many low cost dog training programs in your town that meet once or twice a week. The dog trainer will help you socialize your dog and learn to obey basic commands. By teaching your dog a few commands you will be able to stop your dog from digging whenever he decides to kick up a little dirt.

Divert your dog‘s attention when he starts to dig with a toy or a game of fetch.. He may soon decide that running and fetching is a lot more fun than digging through a pile of dirt.

If your dog is a “genetic digger”, who digs because it’s a breed characteristic, there is a way to control this type of dog digging as well.

Provide an area of the backyard that your dog is allowed to dig in. Whenever he starts to dig, direct him to that area and let him have a dirt digging good time.

If he starts to make a move toward another area of the yard to expand his digging territory, stop him immediately. The best way to do this is to give him a strong verbal command such as “NO Digging!”. Use the exact same phrase every time. Your dog does not understand English or any other language. But he will become accustomed to hearing the sounds of those words and the tone of your voice.

Never, under any condition strike or physically punish your dog. It’s cruel, abusive, unlawful and will not achieve the results that this misguided reaction intends. Your dog will only have the undesired behavior reinforced and become fearful of you. Neither is helpful or healthy..

If your dog is just looking for a cool spot, why not provide him a shady area, with cool water and a gentle breeze. If it is too hot for you to be in the yard, it is too hot for your dog as well. Bring him indoors and let him relax in a cool place with plenty of fresh water and food.

Is your dog a world class digger? Does he misbehave in any other way such as barking or exhibit aggression toward dogs or people? Whatever the problem, help is at hand. Find out how to easily solve any dog behavior issue at dogs-4life.com/disobedient-dog-help.html dogs-4life.com/disobedient-dog-help.html

This article may be reproduced intact with the author’s link displayed.

If you have visited a dog show lately and seen a small somewhat funny looking dog with what can only be called a monkey’s face, you have most likely seen a version of the “Brussels Griffon” breed developed mostly by the Belgians. There are three varieties, almost identical except for coat texture, and since all three varieties can be found within the same litter, it is more appropriate that they should be called varieties rather than separate breeds. However, they are indeed called by separate names: the Griffon Bruxellois, (Brussels Griffon), the Petite Brabancon, and the Griffon Belge. Their pug like appearance and small size is due to the original crosses of a pug and a King Charles Spaniel with the larger Stable Griffon. They first appeared in 1883, and although some of the original dogs may have been bred by Dutch or German breeders, the majority of the development of the breed appears to have come from the breeders in Belgium.

The bug eyed appearance of the Brussels is due to the large rounded eyes perched above the bracocephalic (foreshortened) nostrils and short muzzle. These facial characteristics lead to problems in hot weather, because dogs with such shortened muzzles appear to have more trouble breathing than breeds with more room in the nasal passages. Also the large eyes can be subject to scratches or even irritations due to the long facial hair surrounding the eyes. The eyes need to be checked daily and washed out frequently. The Brussels Griffon can also be prone to the slipped patella or knee cap associated with some of the other toy breeds. Also, as with any toy breed, owners need to watch that the dog, especially as a puppy, is not allowed to jump from furniture or onto hard surfaces for fear of damage to its small legs.

In the United States, the “Griffs” have increased in popularity as both a show dog and a pet since they were introduced into this country in the mid 1950s. Show classes include both the rough coat and the smooth coated one rather than different varieties in the Toy group. They are now often seen in the conformation ring and more and more as a general family pet and apartment dog. These little dogs are noted for their intelligent and inquisitive nature. The AKC standard calls for a temperament that is “full of self-importance” and that really says it all. Griff owners have found that the Griffon puppy needs to believe that the training is HIS idea…this seems to work well as a training method for this somewhat independent minded little dog.

A person who is wanting a small and laid back breed that does not need a lot of attention should definitely not consider the Brussels Griffon, for although they are indeed small, energetic is their middle name. They are inquisitive and have the temperament of a “guard dog”, being faithful and loyal to their human families and often intolerant of intruders. However when with their owners and families they are generally sweet and gentle to all visitors. They are very playful and enjoy nothing more than a good play time with children and other small dogs.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to animals-guide.com/ Animals

So what does it mean to float a horse’s teeth? I’m sure you’ve heard this a time or two (if you haven’t, sooner or later you will from another horse owner or from your vet), and if you’re like me, you imagined for the longest time what this could possibly mean and wondered what it involved.

To float a horse’s teeth certainly sounds funny, too.

Floating means to smooth or contour your horse’s teeth with a file (called a “float”). Unlike your own teeth, your horse’s teeth keep growing. At times, your horse’s teeth may develop sharp edges, making it difficult for her to chew food, hold a bit, or simply have pain and discomfort inside her mouth.

An adult horse may have between 36-44 permanent teeth. And just like humans, your horse gets two sets of teeth in her lifetime. Your horse starts out with temporary baby teeth and by age five, will most likely have her full set of permanent teeth.

The horse’s front teeth cut hay and grass, while the top and bottom cheek teeth grind the forage between the flat surfaces in a sideways motion. This grinding action breaks down the food into a pulp before swallowing which helps it to be digested better. If your horse is unable to grind down food all the way due to uneven teeth surfaces, the unchewed food will not be digested as well.

Most often, points develop on the upper cheek teeth toward the outside of the mouth next to your horse’s cheek. And on the bottom cheek teeth toward the inside of the mouth next to your horse’s tongue. These points can then cut into the cheek and tongue making your horse uncomfortable.

Though it may seem tedious and like a burden, you know having routine dentist check-ups contribute to the overall good health of your own teeth. Well, your horse is no different and deserves some of the same attention to her teeth as you give to yours. Confined horses or those that do not have the ability to graze all day are more prone to teeth overgrowth, as they are not naturally grinding their teeth all day to keep them smooth. Also, just like you, your horse can have other dental problems. A horse can have excessively worn teeth, loose or broken teeth, or infected gums.

One sign that your horse’s teeth may need to be floated is if she is consistently dropping food from her mouth and you start seeing signs of weight loss. Your horse may also exhibit behavior like head-tossing or opening her mouth frequently.

Possible horse dental problem indicators:

Drops food from her mouth
Exhibits difficulty in chewing
Excessive salivation
Loss of weight
Undigested food particles in manure
Head-tossing
Excessive bit chewing
Resisting having the bridle put on
Difficult handling while riding
Mouth odor
Blood in the mouth
Face swelling
Nasal discharge

Because horses are adaptable creatures, even if they are having discomfort, some do not show any signs of dental problems. So don’t assume that if there are no symptoms, there are no problems.

Sharp teeth edges can hurt the inside of your horse’s mouth causing pain and creating sores on her tongue or cheeks. Your horse may show resistance when riding due to added pain from the bit pressing against the sores.

The vet or equine dentist will carefully file all your horse’s teeth that need smoothing to achieve a flat grinding surface between the upper and lower teeth. Having your horse’s teeth floated is well worth it so she digests her food better, is in better spirits, and makes riding more enjoyable for you both.

How often floating is necessary varies quite a bit from one horse to another. Some horses seem to have slower-growing teeth and may require floating only once every several years while others may require floating every few months. Even if your horse does not require her teeth to be floated often, it is still a good idea to have her teeth and gums examined once a year.

The procedure the vet typically uses to float your horse’s teeth is to first sedate your horse to make her relaxed. A special halter is put on with a rope thrown over a ceiling rafter or the equivalent in order to hold your horse’s head up. A mouth speculum is used to keep your horse’s mouth open. The vet will then either manually file your horse’s teeth using a rasp in a back and forth motion to flatten the high points, or may use a power tool. The whole procedure is quick and painless - taking about 15 to 20 minutes to complete.

If you’re like me, you cringe at the thought of someone filing away on your teeth with a rasp. You can imagine the shooting pain from the nerves in your teeth. Personally, the dentist can’t give me enough Novocain to make me feel comfortable before poking around or drilling in my mouth.

Unlike us, a horse’s nerves end close to the gumline, so there is no nerve where the tooth is being worked on, and therefore does not feel any nerve pain. We humans should be so lucky.

Randall Holman, site owner of Front Range Frenzy and horse enthusiast, is the author of the above article. You will find other easy and practical basic horse care information on his website: frontrangeFrenzy.com FrontRangeFrenzy.com.

Pets are very often the ones that fall through the cracks on our busiest days. Every morning we face a mound of responsibility, and how do our modern lifestyles influence our super-modern pets? Less area to roam around in, limited time outdoors and even less companionship with busy dog and cat owners can have numerous physical, emotional and spiritual effects in general.

That is the reason that the holistic approach to our animals well-being is so vital. This approach recognizes that everything that happens around an animal has some kind of impact on his/her bodies, spirit and mind.

Chaotic family life, for instance, creates a frenetic energy all around a pooch. That energy literally influences that dog’s whole being: behavior, general wellness & state of well-being and even shedding.

Holistic pet health practitioners see that the body contains a central force that keeps it in relative harmony. Some call that energy Chi or Ki. The way to a healthy, happy animal is simply to keep the energy in the right balance, moderating all the parts of the body as well as external energies. When an animal’s health & wellness is compromised in any way, this chi force may sometimes become weak and/or misdirected, causing the body to lose that vital energy balance.

Our pets withstand damage every single day. Quite eat nutritionally inadequate dog food and cat food as well as treats that are packed with certain by-products and chemical preservatives. They leap from very high distances, walk over chemically treated lawns and so forth. As our animals get ever-older and stiffer, their ability to stretch or run up stairs is sharply reduced, particularly if they have had an inactive youth.

In addition, a long winter indoors can even help make animals emerge feeling a little creaky and less than agile.
The holistic approach is a very old one and it really helps to bring in the old to help the new.

Doing energy work on your animal consistently, even if they happen to be in relatively good physical condition, may in fact make a major difference in your pet’s existing health. It can also significantly enhance the relationship you have with your beloved animal. But realize that most pet owners are not very well versed in the old ways of Reiki or acupuncture.

This article initially appeared in the March 2006 issue of the Healthy Pet Net Newsletter. More dog and cat health information can be found at

The Chow Chow originated in China. This dog breed is classified as a member of the Non-Sporting group by the American Kennel Club. They were used as hunting dogs in China. They were brought to England by Asian sailors. Chow Chows are seventeen to twenty inches high and weigh around forty five to seventy pounds.

It has a thick double coat which comes in different colors like blue, black, cream or cinnamon, though the red Chow Chow is most common. They have a back tongue with a blue tint. Their blue tongue is totally normal and you should not be concerned about it. They have down turned lips which give them a misleading angry appearance. They also have a curling tail over its back.

These dogs love to play with children though they do not go well with other dogs or pets. They can become unfriendly to people outside the family. The dog may bully you if you are an inexperienced dog owner. You will have to be strict with these dogs else they will dominate you. You must make sure that they follow all your commands in a proper way.

Chow Chows are not suitable for apartment life. A small fenced yard is ideal for them. However if you live in an apartment, then you must take your dog for regular walks. Don’t allow your dog to run loose in the park, they are known for their ferociousness towards other dogs. They are not very energetic animals and require little exercise. To socialize your puppy, you should get them enrolled into puppy obedience classes. They will receive obedience training and the classes will make sure that they do not grow up to be dangerous or aggressive to strangers.

These dogs do not eat a lot. You should feed your dog with proper nutritious food whether it’s a young dog or an adult one. They have thick coats and so they require regular grooming. Their coats are hard to brush because they are so dense. They should not spend too much time outside in summers since their thick coat does not prevent them from heat and they can have problems. They are also prone to develop hip dysplasia and knee joint problems.

Chow Chows are these cute, fuzzy bear like dogs who can be your perfect companion. They have a bit of an attitude problem, and if you are okay with it, then they can be your perfect dog. There’s nothing like hugging these small dogs on a winter night!

George Wood is a successful webmaster of many popular sites including

There are many thoughts and hypotheses, but in reality, we do not have an accurate timeframe regarding the exact origins of the dog or its domestication history.

We do know that its closest ancestor is the wolf, taxonomically it forms part of the group of animals called Canidae, these include wolves, jackals, coyotes, dingoes, and foxes. It is now widely accepted that Canis lupus familiaris (originally classified as Canis familiaris) reclassified in 1993 by the Smithsonian Institute to reflect its wolf ancestry, has wolf like traits and is almost certainly derived from wolf stock.

Today’s domesticated dog is probably a mutated form of the smaller Middle Eastern wolf. Archaeological evidence points to a time-period some 12000 to 15000 years ago when we started creating permanent settlements. This was towards the end of the Mesolithic period and the start of the Neolithic. The earliest of these settlements are to be found in the fertile area now known as Northern Israel. These Natufian villages the oldest recorded settlements, it is now widely believed that this where modern dog may have been domesticated. However, heated debates and counter theories are still ongoing.

Archaeologists have discovered remains of a burial site at a Natufian site called Ain Mallaha, in which an old man and a young pup are buried together, the mans left hand is cradling the dog. The puppy was probably killed to give the man company on his journey to the afterlife. What is so important about this find is that it is the earliest chronological evidence pointing to domestication. And suggests that humans had starting accepting dogs not just as pariahs and vermin but as companions and trusted pets, it therefore points to dogs probably being one of the very first domesticated animals.

The picture of the noble savage striding across the landscape his stone axe and spear at the ready, his faithful wolf-dog padding along next to him is a compelling vision, we could surmise that he had killed the adult wolf and located the den where the wolf cubs lay. Taking pity on them, he then took them back to his camp. Then through his ministrations and love they became domesticated therefore were the forerunners of today’s modern canines. This fanciful idea is somewhat wide of the mark in the reality stakes.

In essence, you cannot domesticate a wolf, you can to some extent tame it to such a degree that it will accept human contact, but you will never domesticate it. To tame a wolf you need to hand rear it. You would need to start this before the cub was 8 days old, prior to the eyes opening, remember he was born deaf and blind and it takes some time for these senses to develop.

This would build an olfactory and tactile map of its surroundings and us as we handle them, they then come to accept our smell and touch, You would need to stay with that wolf 24 hours of the day until it was 16 weeks old, then if you had done everything right it may just accept some human contact.

However if that wolf then bred with another tame or wild wolf then the pups/cubs would be born wild, in other words the hand rearing would have to continue all over again. Therefore, that begs the question where did dogs come from and how did they become domesticated, if we cannot domesticate today’s wolf with all our supposed scientific mastery.

Many including myself are of the opinion that they effectively domesticated themselves. They took advantage of an ecological niche and mutated from their wolf cousins to fill that niche. The trigger was our move from early stone age nomadic hunter/gatherer between the Mesolithic and Neolithic periods, when we started inhabiting permanent settlements and becoming hunter/farmers, my belief is it was that change that stimulated the rapid mutation.

It would appear highly coincidental, that when we started to cultivate crops and domesticate animals, which in turn required permanent or semi permanent settlements that these animals suddenly appeared? The drawings of animals in the Chauvet-Pont-d’Arc cave in France show no images of dogs, these paintings were made approximately 31,000 years ago; others cave drawings of less that 31000 years also do not depict doglike creatures

Wolves have an almost pathological fear of man. You cannot blame them; we have persecuted these noble animals since time immemorial. We have hunted them for their pelts and their meat and have something of a love hate relationship with them. Just look at the bogey man stories of the werewolf that have been passed down over the centuries.

We are fearful of these creatures and rightly so, they can be extremely dangerous, wolves and wolf hybrids do not make good pets, they are unpredictable and immensely powerful. It is illegal in the UK to own or keep a wolf or wolf hybrid without a wild animal licence, which are difficult to obtain. The nearest we can get to a wolf is called the Utonagan Pronounced Yewton-Argan two words, which started as a cross between German Shepherds, Huskies and Malamutes plus a few other odds and ends thrown in . They are stunningly beautiful and look but fortunately do not act wolf-like..

Given the pathological fear wolves have of humans it is quite likely that the incidence and appearance of dogs at the time of our settlements may well have been caused by a hybrid type mutation of the local wolf populace. Other than sex/reproduction, food is very high on the list of vital resources and we are a constant source of that. These Stone Age dog/wolf mutants must have thought Christmas had come all at once, a steady and constant stream of sustenance not having to hunt for it. Just lying about for all to take. This may have been the key for some of these wolves to lose their fear of man.

Dogs like faeces particularly human ones; it is apparently a probiotic and a valuable source of proteins. In part if the Indian subcontinent you can see village dogs following naked children about waiting for them to defecate so they can claim there prize, in parts of Africa when a baby is born they present it with a puppy as a botty-wiper. To prehistoric dogs our middens, latrines and village dumps must have appeared like manna from heaven.

Dogs have an amazing knack of inveigling themselves to humans they are born with the Ahhhhhhhhh factor, large heads and saucer size eyes make then almost irresistible to the primate that is in us all. As part of the primate family, we are hard-wired to want to cuddle something with the head and eye attributes of a pup. That is what makes them so successful in the evolutionary chain.

In what was a very small time-frame some 15000 years, they have gone from zero to 400 million. Paradoxically the wolf population has shrunk to a meagre 200 thousand At one time, the wolf (Canis lupus) had the most extensive range of any land mammal (excluding man), which included the entire Northern Hemisphere north of 13o - 20o north latitude.

Its range has now been cut back extensively mainly by the action of man. Many countries that formerly had wolf populations, including Great Britain, Mexico, and Japan, now have none, and in other countries, such as the United States, wolves occupy only a fraction of their former territory.

So how has this doggy success story happened? To all intents and purposes, dogs are highly successful biological parasites they are on a par with the ubiquitous cuckoo. They con us with their winning ways, cost us a fortune in food, time and vet bills and what do they do in return with the exception of a few working dogs like assistance, sniffer, and gundogs? Basically nothing.

Look at it this way if the human race all died tomorrow because of some nasty pandemic virus what would happen to the dogs? They cannot hunt for themselves they have lost that ability through domestication, therefore within a few generations they would probably all die out. Given the same scenario if a pandemic virus killed all the dogs how many of us would die as a result? The answer is none! it would upset a lot of people but it certainly would not have the affect that our demise would have on the dog population.

Having said all that I am an out and out dog nut, I am passionate about them despite their parasitic ways. Though their passing may not have the same disastrous affect, the world would certainly be a sadder lonelier place without our very best friend the dog.

Stan Rawlinson
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering
Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly and K9 Magazine and Shooting Times.

He is also the founder member of PAACT The Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers

We’ve all encountered them at some point, ill-mannered Shih Tzu. We’ve even seen their owners yelling at them, tugging at their leashes trying to make them behave. What is sad is that you can’t blame the Shih Tzu for the owner’s irresponsibility.

This type of behavior could have been avoided with obedience training. Obedience training is a platform for the Shih Tzu and the owner to learn how to effectively communicate with one another.

Can you conduct obedience training on your own? This is a question that has long been debated by the experts. One school of thought is that it would be better if a professional does the training, while others feel the owner can do it if they feel competent. The truth is that a combination of trainer and owner is probably the most effective.

Find an obedience school in your area. You will probably be told that they recommend a series of lessons that include both the Shih Tzu AND the owner. Sometimes the classes can be arranged where trainer comes to your home. Some trainers feel that training where the surroundings are familiar is helpful where some prefer their own location.

However, whether the obedience training is done at home, by a professional trainer, or in an obedience school, there are things that must be considered when incorporating this kind of training. Here is a list of the things that should be taken into account.

1. Fun

Obedience training does not necessarily mean that strict rules should be imposed. This is because the Shih Tzu is not aware of the reasons why he should be trained. Therefore, for him to respond to the commands, the training must be done in such a way that the Shih Tzu sees the activity as something that is fun.

The Shih Tzu should be praised when he exhibits proper behavior. Some trainers also recommend treats and some do not. That should be discussed with your trainer.

2. Consistency

During the course of obedience training, it is very important to have consistency in the training. For example, if a Shih Tzu was allowed to sit on the rug the other day and when the Shih Tzu tried to sit on the rug today, he was scolded. Things like this should not be taken for granted. It is extremely important to teach the Shih Tzu what he should and should not do and stick to it. Confusion will only make the matters worst.

3. Obedience training instructor/trainer

When people choose to enroll their Shih Tzu in an obedience class, it is important to analyze the trainer before the owner leaves his Shih Tzu. The character and personality of the trainer is extremely important. They should be professional enough to know how to handle the Shih Tzu’s behavior and how to train them properly. Again, you might want to find a trainer that works with both you AND your Shih Tzu.

4. Referrals

It is best not to try new and unfamiliar obedience training schools. This could be really risky both for you and for your Shih Tzu. It would be better if Shih Tzu owners will ask for some referrals from their veterinarians, Shih Tzu dog breeders, or other people who can give their honest opinions.

5. Charges

Not all obedience training schools are created equal. They vary depending on the kind of services they offer. It is best to consider their fees and what services they offer at that rate. This is one area where you don’t want to scrimp so cheapest isn’t always the best. Also, make certain you are dealing with a trainer that will work with both you AND your Shih Tzu.

6. Methods used in the training

It is highly recommended that Shih Tzu owners ask about the methods being used in the training. Make sure the terms are spelled out clearly. Shop for the best training you can find for the money. Don’t make a decision quickly. If you don’t feel comfortable with one individual, by all means keep looking.

There is some Shih Tzu that just seems to follow directions with little or no effort with never a session of profession training. Unfortunately, these examples are few and far between.

Invest in obedience training and you can look at a long and healthy relationship with a loving companion. With obedience training, Shih Tzu will surely be on their way to happier and more enjoyable stay with their masters and the people around them.

Author: Connie Limon. I raise Shih Tzu puppies from top champion bloodlines in many different colors of blues, reds, chocolates, blacks. We have the small AKC standards, imperials and teacups at reasonable prices. We offer you educational material, dog bows and dog clothes. Visit us online at: stainglassshihtzus.com and sign up for our FREE newsletter.

This article is FREE to publish with resource box.

Author: Connie Limon. I raise Shih Tzu puppies from top champion bloodlines in many different colors of blues, reds, chocolates, blacks. We have the small AKC standards, imperials and teacups at reasonable prices. We offer you educational material, dog bows and dog clothes. Visit us online at: stainglassshihtzus.com stainglassshihtzus.com and sign up for our FREE newsletter.

Gerbils love to play. They chew, gnaw, dig, tear, and run throughout every waking moment of their days. To help them to get the most enjoyment out of this time, and to stop them from attacking their cages from a lack of “appropriate” things to chew, it is important that you provide them with toys.

Gerbil toys can consist of just about anything. They will enjoy playing with almost any item you place in their cages. Traditionally, gerbil keepers have used toilet paper tubes and paper towel tubes as home made gerbil toys. The glue on the cardboard is animal or vegetable based, so it won’t hurt your gerbil if any is ingested.

Though your gerbil will rarely tire of these same gifts day after day, they will be extremely excited when you give them something a bit different. The greater the variety of toys you share with your gerbil, the more fun they will have, and the more fun they will be for you to watch. Lots of toys make sure that your gerbil is never bored, and will reduce the chance of your gerbil becoming overweight from inactivity.

Giving gerbils different toys doesn’t necessarily mean that you need to go to the pet store and buy something every time your gerbil needs something to chew. That can be rather expensive over time, and it truly is unnecessary when it comes to day-to-day toys. Instead, you can use the same materials you’d usually use for gerbil toys – for example toilet paper tubes, and alter them to make them a bit more fun.

For one thing, you can partially bury the tubs under the gerbil’s litter to create a system of tunnels that are fun and exciting to explore…and destroy! Be creative when you do this, connecting multiple rolls either end-to-end, or by cutting a hole in the side of one, and sliding the tip of another one into the hole. Multiple entrances and exits make for great adventures and hours of investigation.

Another trick for paper towel tubes and toilet paper tubes is to stuff them full of clean paper towels or uncolored tissue paper. This will give your gerbil lots of fun chewing and ripping.

To make sure that your gerbil’s teeth are well maintained, give him or her lots of harder things to chew as well. This can include wood and pumice stone chews from the pet store, or any wood chews you can make yourself. Make sure that the wood you’re using is untreated. One easy way to obtain untreated wood of the perfect size is to buy a bag of stir sticks (intended for coffee) from the local dollar store. You can either give them to your gerbil one at a time, or in bunches.

The trick with gerbil toys is to make sure that they’re safe, and to make sure that you’re not overcrowding your gerbil’s cage. One or two toys is a lot of fun, but too many toys leaves little room for your gerbil to maneuver around and may cause him or her to be injured accidentally.

Julie Campbell is a gerbil owner and enthusiast, and has gained a great deal of expertise through her gerbil keeping experience and extensive research. For more information about keeping gerbils, gerbil care, and information about gerbil products, visit her website at gerbil.5u.com gerbil.5u.com.

When living with a cat, it is helpful and rewarding to learn a bit about their body language. It’s your feline’s way of getting across how they are feeling, and can teach us a lot about their behaviour and happiness.

Whilst most of us understand what our cat wants when they follow us into the kitchen or sit in front of the fridge, there are a lot more detailed signs that can help us improve our relationship with our feline friend.

Tails

A cat’s tail is a versatile communication tool. Whilst it is evident that when a feline’s fur is all fluffed up and their tail is bushy they aren’t very happy, there are a few more signals that may be helpful to know.

When your cat comes running towards you with their tail high in the air, they are happy to see you and are saying hello.

A swishing tail tends to mean that either your cat is hunting something, or that they are not feeling very pleased - not a good time to approach them.

A twitching tip of the tail means that your cat is not too sure about something. When petting him/her and noticing that little, irritable looking gesture, it is recommended to stop for a bit and see if the tail calms down. A cat will sometimes use this as a warning signal, and when not heeded, some will try get their point across a little more clearly, which could lead to a scratch.

Ears

A cat’s ears can tell us a few things as well. Of course, when they are pressed down and back, you know that your cat is not happy at the moment and it is an excellent idea to stay clear.

When the ears are down slightly, your cat may be feeling defensive.

When the ears move to the side, they are trying to pay attention and might be curious.

When the ears are straight up/alert, your cat is ready to play or be affectionate.

Eyes

A cat’s eyes, just like those of a human, can speak volumes.

If the eyes are wide and looking at you, your cat is listening and paying attention.

If the eyes are half closed, he/she is sleepy.

If your cat is staring, it is best to stay away. Cats don’t like staring and if they do, it can be to challenge.

Clouded eyes can mean relaxation, but can also be an indication of illness, so if the eyes are clouded for a prolonged amount of time, it’s best to keep an eye on your furry friend to see if there are any other signs of illness.

Other body language

When a cat rubs against your leg or arm, this is not just his/her way to say hello. Your cat is “marking” you, letting everyone know that you are their human.

A cat falling asleep on his/her back or side is a sign of true trust - they are exposing their bellies and not worried that you pose a threat. Of course, if you can’t resist the temptation to pet their bellies, there’s always the slight chance that they take offense.

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These are just a few examples of feline body language. There are many more, and each cat is different and will have their own little ways. I recommend taking some time to study your cat and try to communicate with them. Mutual understanding can be truly rewarding.

This article has been submitted in affiliation with PetLovers.Com/ PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for PetLovers.Com/ Pet Forums.

Aquariums have evolved into a very popular hobby, with about millions of aquarium and tropical fish enthusiasts worldwide.

Starting in the 1850s (when the predecessor of the modern aquarium were first being developed as a novel curiosity) the ranks of aquarium keeping has grown as more sophisticated systems including lighting and filtration systems were developed to keep aquarium fish healthy.

However before you can get started in the hobby you must first buy an aquarium. When you get to the pet store or specialized aquarium store you will have lots of aquarium tanks to choose from:

Metal Framework:

Most of the old style aquariums are made with sheets of glass, which are held in a metal framework. This is usually constructed of pieces of angle iron or stainless steel, which are welded together at the corners. Leakage between the glass and metal is prevented by putty aquarium cement, acrylic or silicon sealant.

Battery Jars:

Fish Globes or Bowls: This type of aquarium is useful for emergency purpose, but is not to be recommended as a permanent features. The glasses are cast in one piece and a crack, however small, may suddenly expand and cause a flood. This not only results in a loss of fishes but also necessitates the buying of a new tank, as it is impossible to repair the old one.

Also, when looking through the walls of this type of aquarium, there is distortion, which adversely affects one’s view of the fishes. Similar disadvantages apply in fish globes or bowls.

Plastics:

With the ever-expanding applications of plastics, it is not surprising that these synthetic that these synthetic products have been used to replace glass for aquarium. Plastics have advantage of being unbreakable, but are soft enough for the surface to become scratched. This is in time will mar transparency.

Vitorlite:

This glass-like material is available in many different colours and some very pleasing effects can be obtained by applying it to the sides to back up the aquarium. Moreover, being opaque Vitorlite will hide the wall and any unsightly wires or other apparatus behind the aquarium.

Wood:

Aquarium frameworks with wood are desirable mainly for aesthetic reasons. The wooden framework however will have to be constructed from plywood to prevent warping.

The advantage of the wood lies in the fact that it can be polished, covered with upholstered rug, stained or coated with colours to harmonize with the furnishing of the room.

For more great aquarium related articles and resources check out fishtanks.aquariumspot.com fishtanks.aquariumspot.com